Zug-Shaksgam 2019
The Zug-Shaksgam offers one of the biggest selections of untouched 6000m peaks on the planet, at least outside Tibet. Mostly closed off by slot canyons at the bottom, it can only be reached by crossing glaciated passes from the Shaksgam side or endless desert plateaux from the Kun Lun side. The valley is thought to have been visited by humans only 4 times in recorded history, by Mason in 1926, Shipton in 1930, Lebedev in 2010 and by me in 2014. Neither the 2010 nor the 2014 team came close to climbing anything.
In 2019 we have an opportunity to change this.
- When: May-June, 7 weeks.
- Who: 10-12 members, British, operating in teams of 2-3, can be more exploratory or more technical.
- How much: hopefully not much more than £2000 pp, with help from our friends at the MEF, BMC and MACCF.
The Place
A lot of information about the Zug-Shaksgam can be found in the MEF report on the 2014 effort, especially the map on P23, taken from Lebedev's map, and on Google Earth, where the Lebedev team has posted many pictures.
The good news: there is an unclimbed 6000m peak on every street corner.
The bad news: i) the access, ii) the bureaucracy, iii) the cost, iv) the rivers.
The dates
We have to be out of there by 30th June because the rivers become unmanageable. Also it becomes too warm for ice, and the rock is largely useless. Suggested dates are 11th May to 30th June.
7 weeks total mean 5 weeks in and above BC. It is long, but there is a lot to do and we cannot count on ever getting in there again. It may be possible to arrange 1 early departure for those with less time, but everyone has to start together. The start date could be moved a little earlier if this is preferred.
The good news: there is an unclimbed 6000m peak on every street corner.
The bad news: i) the access, ii) the bureaucracy, iii) the cost, iv) the rivers.
The dates
We have to be out of there by 30th June because the rivers become unmanageable. Also it becomes too warm for ice, and the rock is largely useless. Suggested dates are 11th May to 30th June.
7 weeks total mean 5 weeks in and above BC. It is long, but there is a lot to do and we cannot count on ever getting in there again. It may be possible to arrange 1 early departure for those with less time, but everyone has to start together. The start date could be moved a little earlier if this is preferred.
The people
The Chinese authorities have a strong preference for expedition members all to be from the same country. So, in fact, do the MEF, BMC and MACCF, at least if the country is the UK.
The total number of members needs to be large to climb a worthwhile number of the peaks and to dilute the high costs. The style will of course be alpine beyond BC, i.e. teams of 2-3 members. We need people who are more interested in technical challenges and people more interested in exploring and getting to the summits of things.
The total number of members needs to be large to climb a worthwhile number of the peaks and to dilute the high costs. The style will of course be alpine beyond BC, i.e. teams of 2-3 members. We need people who are more interested in technical challenges and people more interested in exploring and getting to the summits of things.
The Money
The plan is to get a permit for the highest peak in the area, Kaimuk Kangri (6952m). It is impossible to avoid having to pay an unclimbed-peak fee, which is £15000. The long access is responsible for the rest of the price. With 10 people we cannot expect any change from £4000 per person ex-Kashgar. With a suitable team we can build a good case for support from the MEF, BMC and MACCF. Nonetheless, the figure above (£2000 pp including flight) currently ranks as a wild guess.